Changing Landscapes TV Scott Wilson Changing Landscapes TV Scott Wilson

Episode 13: Victoria

So we were at the end of the road. Our last episode took us to British Columbia’s capital, Victoria, at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. We’d been on the road filming for a month and working from north to south it was only natural to finish off the series in our Province’s capital. We checked in at Swans Hotel and Brewpub, very nice digs by the way, and grabbed a bite to eat before catching an early night for we had a busy couple of days lined up.

So we were at the end of the road. Our last episode took us to British Columbia’s capital, Victoria, at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. We’d been on the road filming for a month and working from north to south it was only natural to finish off the series in our Province’s capital. We checked in at Swans Hotel and Brewpub, very nice digs by the way, and grabbed a bite to eat before catching an early night for we had a busy couple of days lined up.

At Fisherman's Wharf

Our first visit was to the CFB Esquimalt Naval & Military Museum where Sara, the Public Affairs Officer for the Navy, had lined up a tour of the museum and a couple of interviews. We rolled up to the security booth, showed our IDs, and followed the painted blue line to the museum, simple as that. Our first interview was with a volunteer, Paul, a retired serviceman who had flown fixed wing aircraft and Sea King helicopters. He was one of the last pilots to land on a Canadian aircraft carrier back in the day and boy could he tell a good story, but I'll save that for the TV show. Then there was Norm, who went over some of the models on display and rattled off some stats. Did you know that at the end of the Second World War Canada had the fourth largest navy in the world! Apparently so. It was a real pleasure talking with them both as they were passionate about their roles at the museum and the navy. Going to museums is definitely about seeing exhibits and boning up on history, but it’s also about talking to volunteers that put the meat on the bones of what one is looking at. Both Paul and Norm did just that. Then it was time for an interview with the Acting Base Commander, Cdr. Boutin. It was a very enlightening interview and not what I expected at all. Having spent five years in the military and being subject to it’s structure I was caught a bit off guard by Cdr. Boutin. She had an interesting story to be sure, of joining the Navy and becoming a Wren, then joining a second time and moving up through the ranks to where she is now, Acting Base Commander of CFB Esquimalt. That’s an incredible journey by anyone's measure, and is a huge testament to how far woman have come in the Canadian military. Canada really is at the forefront in this area which is impressive, but I think what caught me off guard a little more than that was her sense of humour. She was a riot, I know I probably shouldn’t be speaking in such a way of an officer of the Canadian Forces, but it was so refreshing considering the sometimes very staid image some of the officers put forth. Time moves on, technologies change, and so do personnel. During my time in the military I came to realize that one of the greatest attributes an officer can have is the ability to communicate effectively with their subordinates whilst maintaining the respect that goes with their rank. It's a very fine line, especially in today's 'social media' world, but one that I suspect Cdr. Boutin walks with ease. It was a fun interview, and for that we thank you Cdr. Boutin, and thank you Paul and Norm for your time and great stories, and Sara, a huge thank you to you as well for lining up such a great shot list. Cheers!

Acting Base Commander Cdr. Boutin giving us some background

Norm filling in the blanks

HMCS Beacon Hill

Paul getting animated

Launching depth charges

Attack diver

The museum, open to the public Mon - Fri 10:00am - 3:30pm entry by donation. Check it out!

With time unspooling we whipped over to Fisherman’s Wharf in time for a whale watching excursion with Eagle Wing Tours. Brett, at Eagle Wing, hadn’t hesitated in ‘comping’ us a couple of tickets so we could film, and what an outing it was. Before Victoria I had never gone on a whale watching tour, the fact we’d lucked out on the Uchuck III and the MV Francis Barkley were bonuses, lucky spottings during water born passages. This on the other hand was a dedicated ‘whale watching’ tour, so I was interested to see how it would turn out. Just as our Grizzly Bear viewing trip out of Campbell River, we embarked on the tour with the knowledge that there were no guarantees where nature's concerned, so I had some doubts.

An amazing day on the water

As it turned out we didn’t have to worry. After clearing the harbour Captain Rod throttled up ‘4 Ever Wild’ and we motored out to smooth waters. For whatever reason we’d been blessed with good weather during the filming of our series and today was no exception. The overcast sky that started out with us gave way and everything smoothed over, the water, the sky, and even the sun. It was quite a surreal experience, like the calm before the storm, only the storm never came. Instead there were Humpback whales on either side of the vessel. I can’t say I’d ever thought I would complain of too many whales but for a couple of instances I was torn as to which side to film off as we had pairs on either side. It was an amazing time on the water with the crew helping spot whales and giving talks on what we were seeing. And for me, I thought that was the trip, we’d seen the whales, now let's head back, only we didn't. Turns out Eagle Wing isn’t just a whale watching outfit, it's also a ‘wildlife’ tour, so we motored over to Race Rocks Lighthouse to admire the sea lions. They were everywhere, both Steller and California varieties shared the rocks around the lighthouse, and of course there were also some seals in the picture. From there we headed toward the shore and followed it north a ways as we spotted a Bald Eagle, a Blue Heron and other seals. It was like an open water safari, cameras instead of guns. We followed the coast a ways, looking for elusive Orcas but our luck ran short on them, so the skipper nudged the bow back toward Victoria and we motored home. For the awesome afternoon we’d like to thank Brett at Eagle Wing Tours for setting it up and Rod and the crew on ‘4 Ever Wild’ for doing such a great job. Amazing. Thank you!

Thank you Rod

Eagle Wing whale watching boats

'4 Ever Wild' - a sweet ride

Sea lions at Race Rocks

Then it was back to Swans for an ‘honest beer’ and burger. Swans was an interesting choice for us. Obviously we like Brewpubs, but we also like heritage buildings, good locations, and art. Just so happened Swans had it all. Swans was the vision of Michael C. Williams, a local Victorian that believed in preserving heritage and adorning it with eclectic art. By the time of his death he had accumulated numerous properties in Victoria and one of the largest private art collections in Canada, some of which is still on display throughout the building. We were fortunate that the manager, Isaac, arranged a tour of the artwork by one of the staff, Stacey, which was very interesting, and when we'd done that the Brewmaster, Andrew, invited us into the brewery for an 'Honest Beer.' Yes, that's their branding, and I have to concur after imbibing on a couple of brown ales, very honest indeed! For the tour and the room we'd like to thank Swans and Isaac for putting it together for us. And as we're talking about beer I guess a 'cheers' would be in order.

The Swans - cool heritage building

VIP parking

Stacey giving a tour

Jason and Isaac

Brewmaster Andrew

Michael C. Williams - a very interesting man

Our last day of filming took us out to CFB Esquimalt again, this time for a tour of the harbour. We connected with Sara at the museum then whipped down to one of the docks where a very impressive naval tug, the Glendyne, came and picked us up. I’m not sure what we were thinking, a rigid hulled Zodiac or something similar, but definitely not a tug, and was she a beauty. For the next hour we cruised around the harbour and got a good sense of how things worked. The facility has an fascinating history as it served the British Navy before the Canadian navy was a thought. When the Brits finally left, the base fell dormant for a few years before the Canadian Navy was formed and took it over. Many of the buildings from that time still exist including an old dry dock from ‘back in the day.’ The tour was impressive and the Glendyne turned out to be the perfect vessel for it. It doesn't have traditional screws you see, but two sets of blades that hang down on each side at midships. 'Like a pair of blenders,' was how the drive system was explained to us. Because of the technology the Glendyne could literally turn on it's own footprint, which was very important considering one of her main jobs was to move vessels around the harbour.

The Glendyne, what a way to see the harbour!

Cheers Captain John

Thank you very much Sara!

Quite the show

Part of the line-up

The crew on the Glendyne were incredible. It was great to feel their enthusiasm regarding what was going on in the harbour and what was considered a committed future to the force by the government. Very impressive tour, thank you Captain John, and thank you again Sara.

And that was that. Our month of exploring Vancouver Island had come to an end by the inner harbour of Victoria. It had been an incredible month, we’d seen a whole lot more of the island then we could have imagined. Thirteen destinations, numerous activities and a whack of interviews. Dominik painted throughout the month and his paintings are for sale on the site. He also gathered a lot of reference material that he’ll use for future gallery paintings and I think we’ve got the footage we need for a good second series of Changing Landscapes, once I put it all together that is. In closing I’d just like to encourage you to check back now and then for news of how things are going. The object of the month on the road was to film obviously, so that was my primary focus. The blogs, well I wrote the blogs for two reasons. The first was so you could see where we’d been and what we’d done, kinda of like an itinerary of places and actions if you will. To that effect they aren’t particularly detailed as we want to take you to these spots in the show, not write about them in the blogs. The second reason for the blogs was one that I thought was equally, if not more important. There was a great deal of time and effort put in by Dominik and I to make Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island happen, but it’s because of all those folks that said ‘Yes’ when we asked them for assistance that made the show a possibility. We stayed at some pretty impressive places, visited some great museums, and embarked on some very cool adventures during the month of filming. All of that was a direct result of the kindness of people and businesses on Vancouver Island, so I wanted to make sure that during each episode they were mentioned and thanked in the blog. They were the largest factor in this production, and for that I'd like them to know that's how we feel.

And for all you reading this that helped in some way, you know who you are…thank you!

And that's a wrap!

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Episode 12: Old Growth

This was my first trip to Carmanah, Dominik had been there before and was so impressed by it he thought it should be included in the series, so it was. From Salt Spring we ferried back to Crofton, rode up to Lake Cowichan, then hit gravel for 85 kms. The trip up was in the dry which was a blessing, the only thing worse than logging roads on a big bike are wet logging roads. The ride was very telling with regards the forestry industry on Vancouver Island. I still don’t understand the industry if I’m to be honest. Obviously I understand the harvesting of lumber and the replanting practices but the overall ‘cycle’ of the industry in a sustainable light still escapes me.

This was my first trip to Carmanah, Dominik had been there before and was so impressed by it he thought it should be included in the series, so it was. From Salt Spring we ferried back to Crofton, rode up to Lake Cowichan, then hit gravel for 85 kms. The trip up was in the dry which was a blessing, the only thing worse than logging roads on a big bike are wet logging roads. The ride was very telling with regards the forestry industry on Vancouver Island. I still don’t understand the industry if I’m to be honest. Obviously I understand the harvesting of lumber and the replanting practices but the overall ‘cycle’ of the industry in a sustainable light still escapes me. I found it quite ironic that to get to Carmanah we had to ride through some obvious clearcuts where no replanting had taken place. At least that's how it looked to my untrained eye.

Extensive logging has taken place throughout Vancouver Island for years and continues to do so and when I’m safely ensconced in my home on Gabriola I’m oblivious to the scale of logging that continues to take place. That changes though when I board the ferry for a trip to Nanaimo. Sailing into the harbour quite often we’ll pass along side raw logs being loaded onto ships for export. It is a sight that bothers me immensely, and one that was replayed just down the coast at Crofton where we boarded the ferry to Salt Spring. The fact that these logs are being sold and shipped overseas is direct evidence of jobs going overseas, and when one considers the size of the payloads of these 'logging tankers' I have to ask the question, 'how long can they keep doing that before there’s none left?' Ships come and go from Nanaimo on a frequent basis, as I’m sure they do in Crofton, and how many other ports around the island?

The scale of the operation is mind boggling and when one considers the size of Vancouver Island I find it very hard to believe it’s a sustainable industry, the volume of raw log exports is just too great, and this is where ‘Old Growth’ comes into play. With dwindling good wood available eyes turn to trees that will pay. Put a one foot diametre tree next to an eight foot diametre tree and the choice is obvious. Many of us will always take the path of least resistance, it’s human nature, but when does our need for profit usurp social responsibility. Just because we have something, does that give us the right to do with it as we will. In my opinion, yes it does…to a point. There has to be a modicum of restraint shown when much of what we have has already been taken, there should always be something left in reserve. According to an article by Ancient Forest Alliance estimates of old growth logging on Vancouver Island lie around 75% of original old growth forest, and as high as 90% in the fertile valley bottoms, that's the good news. The bad news is it's estimated that 99% of coastal BC Douglas Fir has already been logged, 99%, and yet these stands of Old Growth are still eyed by logging companies. Walking into Carmanah was an incredible experience, as was Meares Island and Avatar Grove by Port Renfrew. To think that conservationists have to fight as hard as they do to try and save what little is left astounds me, and the fact the government seems to continue to allow certain kinds of logging seems plain irresponsible. There are obviously legalities involved, private vs crown land, employment considerations, lobby groups and many other factors that I am ignorant of that effect policies. But while policies are shuffled about logging continues.

During our stays at various locations around the island we had many conversations with locals over the plight of Old Growth forests and raw log exports. It was interesting listening to their opinions. Raw log exports is a real sore spot for many, myself included, but there was one comment by a woman in Port Renfrew that really stuck. When I happened to mention another person's comment regarding the Clayoquot Sound protests of the early 90s and how that person believed the loggers had been caught between corporate policy makers and conservationists she had snorted; “for many loggers as far as they’re concerned the trees will grow back.” Simple enough, and that is the basic premise of many of the arguments. And they are right, they will grow back, but they will never grow back the way the exist today. Those trees have taken centuries to attain their size and the only reason that happened in the first place was because of ideal circumstances, and by that I mean the perfect environment. One thing that clearcuts illustrate more than anything else is how these environments are altered during the logging process. Water courses are diverted, soil is disrupted and a great deal of erosion takes place. Then, once the logs are loaded onto trucks and taken to the mill or the ships for export, trees are replanted with a future harvest already in sight. That piece of land that was once old growth has been put into the logging cycle for future harvesting. The problem with all this is that even if policies change in the future and tracts of land are given back to nature they will never regrow in the same manner because of the disturbance to their habitat. Once these trees are gone, they are gone forever, there is no going back. It’s not a blame thing, it’s a basic perception of how we see the forests. For many they equate to profit, for others they equate to our natural heritage. Logging should continue, I firmly believe that, but in a socially responsible manner. There has to be a moratorium on old growth logging. If trees have been replanted in decades past, as they have, to sustain an industry then those same trees should be harvested. The days of turning to old growth to fill quotas or increase profit margins should be abolished. If an industry proclaims itself to be self sustaining then it should indeed sustain itself, but on that which has already been replanted. The remaining Old Growth should be left the way nature intended.

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Episode 11: Salt Spring Island

Next up was another Gulf Island. We'd covered art on Gabriola and now we were going to cover entrepreneurialism on Salt Spring Island. Yes they have a plethora of artists as well, all the Gulf Islands do for that matter, but they also boast a number of unique businesses with grass routes on Salt Spring. We settled on two, the Salt Spring Island Cheese Company and Mistaken Identity Vineyards, but first we had to check in and for Salt Spring we chose to camp at Ruckle Provincial Park, one of my favourite campgrounds around.

Next up was another Gulf Island. We'd covered art on Gabriola and now we were going to cover entrepreneurialism on Salt Spring Island. Yes they have a plethora of artists as well, all the Gulf Islands do for that matter, but they also boast a number of unique businesses with grassroots on Salt Spring. We settled on two, the Salt Spring Island Cheese Company and Mistaken Identity Vineyards, but first we had to check in and for Salt Spring we chose to camp at Ruckle Provincial Park, one of my favourite campgrounds around.

I've camped at Ruckle a couple of times and the reason I like it so much is because of its location and the marine life. The last time I camped here I saw a pod of killer whales swim right by the front of the tent in the early morning. Ruckle is located on an old family farm and looks out over the water in a stunning fashion. It's also a 'walk-in' campground so there are no vehicles to taint nature. We arrived on our bikes, unloaded our gear into the provided wheel barrows and set up camp, right at waters edge.

The next morning I awoke early to catch the sunrise and what a spectacle it was. Sitting on the rocky shore to wait for the new day I was joined by numerous sea lions that were out trolling. It was funny, they always approached from the right and swam to the left, must have been the current. A couple saw me and circled in for a closer look, they were spectacular. As the sun rose I meandered along the shore and spotted a family of sea otters playing in the water. I watched them for a time and was treated to a shore side excursion as they came out of the water for a little adventure. They were a curious bunch and their activities put an instant smile on my face.

With the sun up Dominik went to work in the next bay and painted a lovely shoreline. It didn't seem to matter where we went nature offered up a beautiful composition for his brush. Then it was off to the Salt Spring Market. Located in Ganges it's quite the size and even though the weather was spotty it was very busy. We tracked down the Salt Spring Cheese booth as a teaser to our upcoming tour and at the stand I talked to Thea, the daughter of the owner, who offered me numerous tasty samples. Salt Spring Cheese is noted for its goat cheeses and did they ever pack a wallop, I had a hard time pulling myself away.

Next up was Mistaken Identity Vineyards, one of three Salt Spring wineries. We'd arranged a little visit and the manager gave us a VIP tour starting in the vineyard which had just been harvested. From there we went to the working area where we could see the love that went into each bottle, then we got down to business, wine tasting! Mistaken Identity offers a great selection of wines and after a quick lesson in 'tasting' we sampled one of each. Mistaken Identity have won numerous awards so are obviously well known for that, but another thing that sets them apart is their labeling. Labeling has become a very prominent part of the industry as wineries have put a lot of effort into 'branding' their products. Mistaken Identity brands their bottles through the artwork of two artists. Jill Louise Campbell's art represents the wines that are 100% Salt Spring, and Laura Harris represents the wines produced with grapes from the Okanagan. The labels are beautiful and the names reflect different aspects of Salt Spring life that many who live there identify with; 'Gratitude,' 'Journey,' 'Freedom,' 'Sanctuary,' 'Community,' and others. It's an interesting story that lends itself to the entrepreneurial spirit that permeates Salt Spring. With the conclusion of the wine tasting Dominik and I bought a bottle each and off we went. For our tour we'd like to thank the folks at Mistaken Identity very much for their time and professionalism. It was a real treat! Thank you!

Next on the list was cheese of course, we had to have some cheese to go with our newly acquired wine. We rolled into the Salt Spring Cheese Company and Dominik went through the factory with the owners son, Derrick. The 'factory' is a Salt Spring destination unto itself. Located in a beautiful country setting it promotes a very educational experience. For the causal tourist the factory is a standalone building that consists of the cheese making facility which backs onto the shop. What is interesting though is that they have constructed a boardwalk that wraps around the building so one can walk around at leisure and observe the cheese making process through large windows. Next to the windows are explanations of the part of the process one is viewing. It really is a neat excursion. Dominik cruised around inside, met the staff and witnessed first hand how things were done, then finished off in the store. For the tour we'd like to thank the folks at Salt Spring Island Cheese, cheers folks.

And that was it for Salt Spring. It's an amazing Island, one that we would recommend in a heartbeat. As far as Gulf Islands go I will never play favourites as I live on Gabriola. Suffice it to say they are all impressive and each has its own distinct identity, in short they're all worth a visit. 

Next up we were off to see some big trees. Carmanah here we come!

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Episode 10: Nanaimo

Nanaimo, Dominik's home and my frequent port of call will have to wait until I get back from Sri Lanka. It will be episode 10 and we have some great things lined up but because it's on our doorstep it became our 'variable' episode, ie. no travel involved so we can film anytime. For that reason we'll pick it up in the New Year and slot it in.

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Episode 9: Tofino

So, we slipped through the intersection, rode by the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and headed for Tofino. We got hung up in some gnarly rain but as we arrived in town the rain faded and the sun began to punch its way through. We were lucky, end of October and the sun was sporting its colours, highly unusual for Tofino. If there's one thing you can count on in Tofino heading into the off season was unpredictable weather.

So, we slipped through the intersection, rode by the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and headed for Tofino. We got hung up in some gnarly rain but as we arrived in town the rain faded and the sun began to punch its way through. We were lucky, end of October and the sun was sporting its colours, highly unusual for Tofino. If there's one thing you can count on in Tofino heading into the off season was unpredictable weather.

We checked into our next digs, the Wickaninnish Inn on Chesterman Beach. The 'Wick' has a reputation, it's supposed to be quite good, so I was looking forward to seeing if it'd measure up to its 'best resort in Canada' status as heralded by Travel + Leisure magazine in 2015. Any resort worth its salt will boast a stunning backdrop and the Wick had that stitched up. All one has to do is go to the lower level, through the cafe, out the door and walk the short walk to the beach to get why the place is special. There's obviously been great care in the development of the Wick and that was confirmed by managing director Charles McDiarmid's comments during a two hour tour of the property. For me there's no better building material on the planet than wood. It has a natural beauty and connects us with the elements. The Wick definitely connects here, in fact it connects with the forest around it, the rocks before it, and the water a short distance away. With the layout of the Wick one has to nod ones head to the level of commitment in working with nature as opposed to erasing it. The site was selectively cleared and those trees that came down for the build were recycled as building materials and art in the Wick itself, just look at the huge portico supports at each entrance and the entrance doors themselves. Every effort has been made to embrace and pay tribute to the locale which struck a chord within me. The other thing I picked up on was the attention to detail, even if one wanted to ignore it, it works at you on a subliminal level. There are so many small details that are passed by on an individual level that conspire on a collective level to augment the experience. Now this isn't a plug for the Wick, though I know it must read like one, after all they did 'comp' us our stay, but the builder in me has to acknowledge the experience for what it is. It can't be denied.

Add local art to the mix and the 'storm watching' restaurant on the point and the Wick really does become a very special place. And the 'storm watching' theme is one that I've always been skeptical of. Don't get me wrong, I love nature at work, but I'd always thought of it as nothing more than a marketing gimmick to fill empty rooms during the off season. After our tour I have to admit I was wrong. The Wick is a purpose built resort, yes, but it's a purpose built 'storm watching' resort. The idea had been there from the beginning and the fact that there are rain slickers in every room and gumboots for guests testifies to promoting the elements, and when all that has been experienced you can dine in a restaurant built on the point with waves crashing just the other side of the windows. It's as close as you can be to the sea without becoming its victim. We ended up spending two nights at the Wickininnish and if I were honest I'd have to bow to the judgement of Travel + Leisure. It's a very special place indeed. Thank you very much Charles for our stay and the incredible tour.

The next morning Dominik got to work at the north end of the property. He chose an angle looking north that highlighted the different hues of tree lines. He often talked about how the light changed with distance and he painted a stunning example as each successive bay gave rise to a new line of forest that sported a different hue. He was obviously enjoying himself, caught up in another Zen period no doubt.

From there it was off to see 'Feather George' at the Carving Shed. George is a carver who's been at it for years and his specialty is feathers, hence the 'Feather George' title. I am always in awe of those immersed in their passion and to watch George at his was a treat. His feathers were magnificent and as he held one up I could see the translucency of the wood at the outer edges, that's how thin they were. After listening to him for awhile and seeing the intricacies of his feathers I concluded that they reflected the carver himself, for he held a reverence for nature and the trees themselves. To him carving was not just a means to an end, it was a ways of communicating in his way with nature. There was thought, consideration given to each piece of wood and how best to use it and an acknowledgement to its beauty and in a sense, its increasing scarcity.

I finished the day off with a blast with the Tofino Incinerators, that's right, the Tofino Incinerators, named after that famous rock formation out at Long Beach. I'd met a guy, Tony, the day prior and when he'd seen me on my bike we got to talking. Turns out every Tuesday was ride night for the incinerators and he invited me along. Well, when in Rome...and I felt like being an incinerator for a day, so I showed up at Tony's Pizza just off Main Street and met the crew.  There was quite the turn out, there were even a couple of Ukees in the ranks. After the obligatory bike shop talk (which I can never get enough of) we fired up our beasts and hit the road. They were an enthusiastic bunch and it was great riding with the locals and before you knew it we were at Incinerator Rock. We parked the bikes as the sun set and engaged in some more animated bike talk. A while later we headed back to town and as we rode one after another of the Incinerators peeled off to return home and before you knew it the weekly ritual had dispersed. Lots of fun. Thanks for the invite Tony!

We finished off our Tofino segment the next morning with a kayak trip out to Meares Island to visit the big trees. Tofino Sea Kayaking were our outfitters and Liam was our guide. He was a great guy and totally into his role as Tofino ambassador of all things nature. He kitted us up in a couple of kayaks, gave Dominik some lessons, then we were off.

The weather was moody, skies were dull, but we were on the West Coast and it somehow seemed to fit. To understand the BC coast you have to see it up close in all weather, sure sunshine is nourishing, but so is seeing mist dance in the trees. There's a whole Jekyll and Hyde quality to the West Coast that is magical if you embrace it and during our mornings adventure we got to see both sides. The kayak over was not taxing and getting sprayed in the face by the elements was a very refreshing way to start the day. We arrived at Meares Island, ditched our kayaks and headed into the forest by way of another boardwalk. Bamfield's boardwalk may have been part of the highway system and maintained by them, the one on Meares was a bit more rustic, giant slabs of red cedar nailed to cedar rails underneath. It was quite slick, literally and figuratively. The local First Nations had been doing a lot of great work on the trail and it showed.

We meandered through the forest and went to that special place reserved by old growth. Vancouver Island has been logged for years and I guess it's only due to some very committed people and nature's resistance to collaboration with corporate policies that there still remain a few stands of old growth forest. If ever the expression 'seeing is believing' was more appropriate elsewhere than walking among the big trees I have yet to encounter it. I am always humbled by the forest, I find its envelope acts like a vault that keeps the world at bay. Yes, I enjoy my time in and on the water a bit more perhaps, but that is from a physical front, from an emotional one the forest calms me in a way that I have yet to find anywhere else. To see trees the size and age of those on Meares Island is a very special experience, a very personal one that has to be witnessed with all ones senses. I strongly encourage you to make the trip.

We paddled back across the water and were rewarded for sticking to our plans with some glorious sunshine. It had been a morning of beautiful contrasts and for that we'd like to thank Tofino Sea Kayaking and Liam in particular for a great excursion on the water and in the forest. Very nice. Thank you Liam, heck of a guide, though it's just as well you can't control the weather too, after all rain and sun in equal measures might be the perfect recipe.

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Episode 8: Ucluelet

Ucluelet...turn left at the junction most folks turn right at. The route from Port Alberni took us across the islands spine over a road that was built for motorcyclists. Even though the rain had set in it was still a pleasure, then we arrived at the aforementioned intersection.

Ucluelet...turn left at the junction most folks turn right at. The route from Port Alberni took us across the islands spine over a road that was built for motorcyclists. Even though the rain had set in it was still a pleasure, then we arrived at the aforementioned intersection. Turn right to the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and Tofino, or left to Ucluelet. Just as many pass through Port Alberni on route for Tofino they also turn right at the intersection and leave Ucluelet behind on the map. We turned left.

Ucluelet doesn't have the same beaches as the Reserve, instead it has trails that hug gnarled coastline battered by big water. It's a rugged place with a rugged character. Yes, things are moving upscale but it's still a good half decade behind Tofino and for many that's a good thing. There is that surfer west coast vibe in town but it will never emulate Tofino as the beaches and waves differ in character.

Our first morning in town we rode down to the Amphitrite Point Lighthouse and walked the trail until Dominik found a good vantage point for another coastal scene. It was a magnificent spot and as the lighthouse bellowed through its foghorn and the waves crashed on rock Dominik painted another beautiful West Coast vista. Filming him painting there made me take note of the ocean and its power and I began to understand its beauty at this particular spot. Immediately around us there were no safe spots to enter the water, it was simply one of those places that forces you to admire from a distance as opposed to wading in. Watching the waves as they rolled in and were sucked back out to sea was mesmerizing. It truly is a contemplative place, a place to mull thoughts and acknowledge nature in its rawest form.

After a quick bite it was off to the Ucluelet Aquarium where we met Carly and Emily for a tour of the relatively new facility. Built next to the harbour the aquarium reflects Ucluelets progressive nature and echoes its ecological sympathies with a 'catch and release' program. I'd never heard of such a thing and the Ucluelet Aquarium is one of the first such aquariums to follow this principal. In short, every species in the aquarium is sourced from local waters and depending on the species it is released back into those waters within a certain time frame. Some of the critters might only stay a couple of weeks while others may spend the season but in the end all are returned to the big blue at the end of the season. I had to smile when Carly explained that some were sourced as far way as Bamfield...a whopping 30 kms away as the crow flies.

We spent a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon at the aquarium and marveled at how such a place could be so educational and fun at the same time. It definitely proved that the kid in all of us never dies. We'd like to thank Carly and Emily for sharing their time and passion with us, they were a blast to be around and it's obvious that with professionals like themselves running the show that not only would the temporary residents be well cared for, but an important awareness of those same creatures and their habitats would be shared with the public which is always necessary for any long term ecological preservation policies to be implemented.

Thank you Carly and Emily.

I've already touched on the surfer vibe that 'kind of' permeates Ucluelet, but maybe it's more just a west coast thing, no, scratch that, it's a Ucluelet thing. In every town vibes emanate from many sources, stickers on car bumpers, funky signage, local building materials, the way people dress, but perhaps the strongest emitter of unique local vibes are the stores that line main street. Storefronts are like DNA, they tell you the kind of place you're visiting before you've had a chance to get to the counter and order a cup of coffee. Ucluelet had a funky vibe, and the stores echoed it and during my 'I Love Ucluelet' sticker hunt I stumbled upon a treasure; Pina.

I'd been told by Carly and Emily at the aquarium that I could get a Ucluelet sticker at the Pina shop, so off I went, and what a cool surprise awaited me. As soon as I saw the printers behind the counter I started asking questions and Mary and Lindsey filled me in. Everything was done in-house, which is cool to start with, but when you factor in the artwork of the owner, Angie Roussin, that adorned every item sold, I was entranced. Mary and Lindsey showed me a couple of designs and printed one off while I was there, a 'Hipster Bear!' The Hipster Bear was a third of a series, the other thirds belonging to the 'Hipster Eagle,' and the 'Hipster Sea Lion.' I loved it. Playful, artistic and colourful, the shop was a perfect mirror to the town of Uclulet, or 'Ukee,' as my sticker proudly proclaimed.

With the day done we headed back to the Canadian Princess Fishing Lodge for a good nights rest. The lodge was on the harbour and our deck door opened onto a path that led to the Canadian Princess ship moored not a 100' away. The Princess has an interesting past and when it was still the William J. Stewart, a hydrographic vessel based out of Victoria, she had charted many of the waters off the British Columbian coast. Her last job ended in 1975 after which she was bought by the Oak Bay Marine Group and relocated to Ucluelet as the centre for their fishing lodge. She is a beautiful vessel and luckily we snagged a tour on-board which was akin to walking through a time portal, you should see the size of the exposed con rods in the engine room, monsters! For our great accommodation at the Canadian Princess Fishing Lodge we'd like to thank the Oak Bay Marine Group and in particular Mike Watling for putting up with us a second time! Yes, that's right, they already put us up at the Painter's Lodge in Campbell River. Very gracious indeed.

Thanks again Mike!

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Episode 7: Bamfield

So, from Port Alberni it was off down the Barkley Sound on the MV Francis Barkley, a converted Norwegian car ferry built in 1958. We departed in mist but the sun soon burned it off and before long we had blue skies and were accompanied by humpback whales, sea lions and sea otters.

So, from Port Alberni it was off down the Barkley Sound on the MV Francis Barkley, a converted Norwegian car ferry built in 1958. We departed in mist but the sun soon burned it off and before long we had blue skies and were accompanied by humpback whales, sea lions and sea otters.

It was a magnificent trip down the sound and we'd like to thank Captain John, first mate Mike, engineer Darren, and deck hand Michael for sharing their vessel with us and loading and off loading our bikes like they could do it in their sleep. We'd also like to thank Mike, the owner, for 'comping' us the passage and Stacy in the office for getting us booked on board. We shared the deck space with quite a few very happy tourists. There was one English couple based out of Nanaimo that had procrastinated for seven years before booking a passage and when I asked the husband if the wait had been worth it he bust a smile that gave me an instant answer. For us in a sense it was work, but humpback whales, blue skies, and a very hospitable crew allowed us to enjoy the passage every bit as much as the tourists. So, a huge thank you to the folks at Lady Rose Marine Services, another first for me on Vancouver Island.

We slid into Bamfield which is split by the water into East Bamfield, and West Bamfield. Dianne, at Imperial Eagle Fishing Lodge was putting us up for a couple of nights and she was in West Bamfield, but we had to store the bikes on the east side as that was where the road was. Bamfield is a cool little town with a big heart and the coolest boardwalk in Canada, part of the Queen's highway apparently! We soon got settle at the Imperial Eagle and we'd like to thank Dianne for putting us up in such a cool cabin. She was lovely and had my attention as soon as I saw her mowing the yard on her bright orange Husqvarna mower. Soft spoken, Dianne thought it would be neat to help us out on our adventure and it's because of folks like her that we managed to pull it off, so thank you Dianne.

We soon got a handle on Bamfield, with less than 200 people it's not a huge place but the fact it's divided in two with a water taxi connecting the two sides lends a uniqueness that is very refreshing. Add to that the absence of 'through' traffic on the west side and it makes for a very peaceful destination. The next morning we walked out to Brady's Beach so Dominik could set up and capture a prime West Coast vista, and I think he captured it beautifully.

Then it was off to a very interesting place, the Bamfield Marine Science Centre, or BMSC. We had a couple of interviews lined up with the faculty so called Mark and he whisked us over to the 'east side' in his water taxi. From there we climbed on the bikes and headed for the BMSC. The facility is located on the site of the old Pacific Cable station that was the terminus for a Trans Pacific cable in 1902. The location has quite the history and after the cable operations were suspended in Bamfield in 1959 the site remained dormant for years before five western universities banded together to create the Bamfield Marine Station in 1972. It later became the Bamfield Marine Science Centre, or BMSC as it is known today.

We tracked down Brad Anholt, the director, and Phil Lavoie, who worked in the Whale Lab, for a couple of very interesting interviews and would like to thank them both for their time and enthusiasm in helping us out. The BMSC is an incredible facility and our look inside was a real bonus. Thank you!

We finished off our day with a walk on the board walk and a natter with Bamfield's postmistress, Rose. She came to Bamfield 34 years ago for the weekend and hasn't gone home yet and doesn't look like she will any time soon. When I asked her why she looked at me, then her surroundings and said, "Why."

The next morning Dominik managed to wrangle up a tour of the Coast Guard Base. Matt, the base commander, gave us an excellent walk-though and though we couldn't film, we didn't have our clearances in place, it was a very impressive visit. The state of the art base is one of the oldest on the West Coast and it was a real treat to see the level of gear present and acknowledge the upkeep at the base. I was having flashbacks to my time in the military. It's always pleasant to see such high levels of professionalism and we take our hats off to all those that serve with the Coast Guard, definitely an honourable profession.

Then it was back on the Barkley! We could have ridden the Bamfield road but we've both done that before and whenever one has a chance to get on the water and see humpbacks in action the opportunity shouldn't be missed. Four hours later we were back in Port Alberni and heading on to our next destination: Ucluelet.....or Ukee as it's know to the locals.

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Episode 6: Port Alberni

From Gabriola it was off on a jaunt of the mid west coast area, one well known to travelers, Port Alberni, Bamfield, Ucluelet and Tofino. Port Alberni was our first stop. As it wasn't a long haul from Nanaimo we took our time and made an unscheduled stop at Cathedral Grove, an ancient stand of western red cedars that flank the main road just before Port Alberni. It's always a nice stop and the giants didn't disappoint.

From Gabriola it was off on a jaunt of the mid west coast, one well known to travelers, Port Alberni, Bamfield, Ucluelet and Tofino. Port Alberni was our first stop and as it wasn't a long haul from Nanaimo we took our time and made an unscheduled stop at Cathedral Grove, an ancient stand of western red cedars that flanked the main road just before Port Alberni. It's always a nice stop and the giants didn't disappoint.

From there we headed to Stamp River Provincial Park as we heard the salmon were running, and were they ever. With the recent rains the river was roaring and we checked out the salmon ladder and the falls themselves where natures power was hard at work. As water cascaded over the falls we watched salmon leaping through the air trying to gain the next level. It was an amazing sight.

Then it was off to meet Daniel and Bouchra, our hosts for the next couple of nights on board the 'Swept Away Inn,' a 100' tug boat moored in the harbour. What a blast. We figured we mix things up on the accommodation front and a tug boat fit the bill. Daniel hails from Quebec and Bouchra from Morocco and what a pair they were, and the tug was magnificent. The 'MV Songhee' was the second converted minesweeper we'd stayed on, the other being the Uchuck III in Gold River. The Songhee also had a colourful history and after serving as a floating fishing lodge in the Queen Charlotte Islands Daniel and Bouchra had bought her and converted her into the Swept Away Inn, and what a lovely job they'd done. Add incredible authentic Moroccan cuisine to the unique lodgings and it makes for a very memorable stay. Thank you very much Daniel and Bouchra, and remember, if you're ever on Gabriola you have a room at the Nomadic Bull B&B.

The next morning Dominik set up on the dock just in front of the MV Songhee and painted a beautiful likeness of her while Daniel gave me a tour of the tug. We were getting a good sense of Port Alberni and our impressions were evolving fast. For many, including myself, Port Alberni was nothing more than a small town lost on the highway to Tofino, but as I was finding out nothing could be further from the truth. Its location, its history, its natural beauty, and the 'jumping off' aspect of its location were really strong attractions. Its had a hard time shaking off its working class mill town roots, but it's succeeding, and rightfully so. Port Alberni is a gem for many reasons and should be given its due. I'll definitely be going back.

In the afternoon it was time to leave the water behind and head out to the McLean Steam Sawmill and what better way to get there then on a 'Speeder!' What's that you ask, well it's the little yellow beauty pictured below. Used in the old days to transport workers to the jobsite Neil and the boys from Alberni Valley Heritage Network fired her up just for us so we could arrive at Canada's last operating commercial steam sawmill in style. It was a gas and the mill was an incredible insight into the past. To see how the mill was set up to cut big wood was amazing. Belt's, chutes, blades, the supporting buildings and machinery were all 100% authentic. There's no doubt the mill in the old days was a place of hard work, but also one of a tight knit community and the fact the folks at the Heritage Valley Network continue to operate it is a real treat. We'd like to thank Neil for organizing our time there and Peter and Rod for flashing up the 'Speeder' and sharing their stories. Great afternoon guys, thank you very much!

Then it was back to our tug for an incredible authentic Moroccan dinner prepared by Bouchra. It was served on a 'live edged' western red cedar slab table that had been milled just up the rails at the McLean Mill. Joining us were a lively South African couple and what a fine evening it was. Bouchra and Daniel were very entertaining hosts and it was my first time eating Moroccan food which was a real treat, very nice indeed. What a great capper to a couple of excellent days in Port Alberni.

Next stop, Bamfield. How would we get there? Why on the MV Francis Barkley of course, right down Barkley Sound through waters spotted with humpback whales, sea otters, and sea lions. The maritime theme was definitely gaining traction.

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Episode 5: Gabriola Island

So it was home sweet home, well for me at any rate. Gabriola Island, or 'Gabe,' is known as the 'Isle of the Arts,' and for good reason. Because of that and the timing of the Thanksgiving Studio Tour we decided to make art the focus of this episode, I mean let's face it, as Carol at Twin Beaches Gallery likes to say:

So it was home sweet home, well for me at any rate. Gabriola Island, or 'Gabe,' is known as the 'Isle of the Arts,' and for good reason. Because of that and the timing of the Thanksgiving Studio Tour we decided to make art the focus of this episode, I mean let's face it, as Carol at Twin Beaches Gallery likes to say:

 
 

Dominik rode over and checked in at the Nomadic Bull B&B, yes I own and operate a B&B, so if you're ever thinking of coming to Gabe and like big cedars and peace and tranquility then give me a shout. Joining us was my son Cole, Dominik's better half, Mariko, and a couple of guests from Pasadena, California, Marionne and Mui.

Common living area

Common kitchen

Two rooms to choose from

Our first stop was one of Gabriola's most visited natural landmarks, the Malaspina Galleries, a beautiful wave like rock formation at waters edge. It offered a beautiful seascape and Dominik painted a gorgeous perspective as the tide rolled in. In fact he had to move a couple of times to keep his feet dry.

Dominik at work

An awesome spot

Another beauty

Next up was Twin Beaches Gallery to meet Carol. Carol, who owns the gallery, came over from Vancouver and when she wasn't working in 'The Gabe Shop,' she was organizing her gallery. Although Carol doesn't have a background in art, she comes from the fashion industry, she has a major passion for it so had opened Twin Beaches Gallery. She believes in the artists on Gabriola and has opened her doors to many local artists, some on the Studio Tour, but many not. I chose the gallery because many of the artists there were emerging artists. Any art form takes a serious commitment loaded with talent and a great deal of perseverance. The 'starving artist' syndrome is very real and many are unable to make a living at it because they are too busy at other jobs to pay the bills. It is a pickle they all face so the decision to commit to one's art over a regular source of employment is a tough one so it's always nice to see a healthy collection of artists venturing down that path. Carol had displays throughout her gallery and had also rented an additional space so many local artists were well covered. There was some spectacular art on display and we'd like to thank Carol for giving us a tour of the galleries. Remember, Art Lives Here!

Eclectic collections

Carol and I

My favourites

Then it was Dominik's turn. He chose Elsa Bluethner of Bluethner Fine Art. Flipping through the Studio Tour guide booklet he immediately gravitated to her work, he mentioned the brush work and light in her paintings and was quite eager to see her work up close and interview her. Elsa has not been on Gabriola long either but along with her husband, Philip, had bought a house just up from Berry Point Road and had set up shop. Elsa walked us through her gallery and talked to Dominik in depth regarding her work, her process, and on the writing on the borders of a particular series of paintings. The words came from Philip who wrote poetry and were excerpts from poems he had written to Elsa. It was a very special collection with a very personal twist. The interview covered a good portion of her work which also included some very imaginative pottery. All in all it was a great visit and we'd like to thank Elsa and Philip for taking time out of their busy Studio Tour schedule to give us a great one-on-one interview. Thank you very much and best of luck on Gabe!

Beautiful paintings

Dominik and Elsa

And not just paintings

From there it was back to the Nomadic Bull B&B for a pasta dinner prepared by yours truly for us and my guests. It had been a grand day on a grand island covering some very talented artists. Might as well finish it off with a good meal and some red!

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Episode 4: Campbell River

From Coal Harbour it was off to Campbell River, another port town with a big heart. The weather was gnarly but the road was beautiful with little traffic. We were on a deadline as we were going Grizzly Bear viewing with Discovery Marine Safari and they were leaving the dock at 11:30am. We arrived in time and met the owner, Geord, in the office and were treated to some great Campbell River hospitality.

From Coal Harbour it was off to Campbell River, another port town with a big heart. The weather was gnarly but the road was beautiful with little traffic. We were on a deadline as we were going Grizzly Bear viewing with Discovery Marine Safari and they were leaving the dock at 11:30am. We arrived in time and met the owner, Geord, in the office and were treated to some great Campbell River hospitality. They'd been expecting us and when we'd walked through the door to the shop Geord said, "Looks like you're already dressed for the tour!" Yes, it was quite miserable outside, but spirits were high. From there we walked across the street to the marina and boarded the 'Tenacious III,' a beautiful purpose built aluminum hulled whale watching boat. Powered by twin Volvos Captain John whisked us across the water to Bute Inlet in a couple of hours and Michael and Conrad from the Homalco First Nations greeted us at the dock.

As with most wildlife viewing luck is a huge factor. Just because we were there to see grizzly bears didn't mean they would come out to play....but they did. At our first observation post we saw seven! Two mommas with a pair of cubs each and a big black bear that sauntered down to the river bank and scooped out a giant salmon before heading back to the woods. All in all we saw 20 grizzlies and the black in a couple of hours, a pretty good 'viewing' if you ask me, and because the weather was nasty there were only seven of us on the tour so we all had good vantage points.

On the way back the resident marine biologist, Amber, offered up a great question and answer period and pulled her book out so that every time we saw something in the water she would flip to the page that dealt with it and give us a breakdown. I must say this side of the trip was an unanticipated bonus. A wildlife viewing adventure is usually just that, but Captain John with his 20 plus years with the 'Department of Fisheries and Oceans' experience and Amber's passion for marine biology filled in a lot of the blanks. It's always nice to make sense of something you've just seen and the greater the awareness concerning these creatures will lead to measures to protect their future. For the trip we extend a huge thank you to Geord for making it happen, to Captain John, Amber, and Ann on the Tenacious III, and Michael and Conrad of the Homolka First Nations. The trip lasted seven hours, was beautifully run, very insightful, and we got to see our grizzlies. An incredible day I'd say....and sorry about the picture Ann, but you were such a great sport I had to!

From there we bunked down at the Painter's Lodge which was a real treat. Yes the old lodge burned down in the 80s but the replacement was built in a fashion that reflected the roots of the original. It commanded a spectacular presence on the waterfront and when lit up in the evening it glowed with a cheery warmth. To compliment the exterior were tributes to the past inside by way of photos of past guests, many rich and famous. John Wayne was hanging on the wall, as was Bob Hope and Vincent Price, in fact the wall leading up to the second floor was a 'who's who' of Hollywood royalty. On the second floor was the Tyee Club, an elite club for those that had caught a 30lb or larger salmon from a dinghy rowed out into the bay by one of the staff. It was quite the club, I've yet to join. For our stay at Painter's Lodge we'd like to thank Mike Watling very much. The Painter's is a class act so thank you very much Mike!

The next day we were off to the Campbell River Maritime Heritage Centre, a beautiful museum built on the foundations of the old water treatment plant. It was obvious that our series was taking on a strong maritime theme and the Heritage Centre added to it by housing the BCP45, an old salmon fishing seiner built in 1927. This was the same seiner that was photographed in 1957 and featured on the back of the Canadian 5$ bill in the 70s. At the centre we met Vic Anderson, one of the restorers of the BCP45 and he gave us a great tour. It was amazing to see the beautiful job they'd done on her, all for less than forty thousand dollars, and on that note it must be noted that the crew of restorers worked on the project without any form of monetary gain. To all of them it was purely a labour of love. The museum is a thing of beauty and makes for a very interesting stop. We'd like to thank Vic for the great tour and Trish Whiteside, the Operations Manager, for arranging the tour and interview. Thank you!

So, Campbell River was just about done, but we had one last stop before heading south, and that was the Shelter Point Distillery. Yes, there is a great maritime tradition running through Vancouver Island, but there's also a strong entrepreneurial one running too. Patrick Evans, President at Shelter Point, was raised a dairy farmer but a few years back made the decision to diversify, and what a bold choice he made, into single malt Canadian whiskey. We met Patrick at the entrance of the purpose built distillery and he gave us the tour. The building was a work of art, the gift store was very nicely done but it was when we walked though to the distillery that we got a real sense of his commitment to the business. Clear grain Douglas Fir beams supported the roof while a series of etched glass panels illustrated the process of creating whiskey from 'field to flask.' The large room was beautifully appointed and ambient lighting lent a very informal tone to the area, but it was the stills to the left that commanded our attention. The two stills had been beautifully handcrafted in Scotland and shipped over to Vancouver Island via the Panama Canal. For the next half hour Patrick gave a very comprehensive tour followed by a little 'sampling!' It was a fantastic end to our Campbell River episode and we'd like to thank Patrick and wish him well in his new venture.

Then it was on to my home island, Gabriola, to cover the Thanksgiving Studio Tour. Yes, yes, yes, it was turning into one heck of a trip.


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Episode 3: The Northern End

From Alert Bay it was a short jaunt to Port Hardy, the end of Highway 19, the road that was commemorated by a giant wooden carrot planted in Carrot Park to bear witness to broken promises by past governments to build the road to connect the north island to the rest.

From Alert Bay it was a short jaunt to Port Hardy, the end of Highway 19, the road that was commemorated by a giant wooden carrot planted in Carrot Park to bear witness to broken promises by past governments to build the road to connect the north island to the rest. We checked in at the Quarterdeck Inn by the waters edge and soon settled in to our new comfortable surroundings. Carrie, Alyssa and Susan took great care of us and a special thank you goes out to Carrie for making our stay possible. When our plans had changed at short notice and we needed a spot in Port Hardy she came through without hesitation with a couple of very comfortable rooms indeed. She was a sweetheart. The fact is we were really starting to appreciate the warmth of the people around the island.

The next day we spent exploring gravel roads that led us through Holberg, Winter Harbour and on to San Josef Bay. Holberg has its roots in logging which is still going on, Winter Harbour's roots were in water, but the Halibut fishing season had wound down, but San Josef Bay hadn't, fair enough there were only six people on the beach, but that was the point. San Josef is one of those pristine places you go to to be with nature. Shimmering waters, expansive beaches and rock towers were the ideal backdrop for another of Dominik's great paintings. And no cell phone signal, very fitting.

From there it was back to Port Hardy and the Quaterdeck Pub for a great meal and couple of pints. Great day, great food, great digs. Thank you Carrie.

The following morning we had a short 13 km rip over a gorgeous road to Coal Harbour, a 'Whale of a Town!' The name comes from coal discovered back in the day, the welcome sign at the edge of town from whaling days that succeeded coal. The town sits on Quatsino Sound and what a picturesque setting it is. We checked in at the Dolphin House B&B where Ann the 'Tea Lady,' and Frank the 'Coffee Man' graciously put us up for a couple of nights. They were quite the pair, hilarious, she hailed originally from Liverpool, England, and Frank from Brazil....and they ended up in Coal Harbour no less, and loved it! Their hospitality was wonderful and we had a blast listening to some of their stories from both sides of the 'pond.' According to Anne black bears can move like Jackie Chan!  Their B&B was right on the water and provided an incredible opportunity for Dominik to paint at waters edge. It was quite the experience filming him as float planes ripped overhead while a lone sea otter paddled gracefully by.

Apart from coal and whaling Coal Harbour was also a Canadian Air Force base. The base is long gone but remnants remain and one local, Joel Eilertsen, has put to very good use a former RCAF hanger. Among other things Joel has created the 'Joey's History of Coal Harbour Museum' which is one of the neatest museums one could stumble upon. It deals with all aspects of Coal Harbour's past and there are great exhibits such as the old fire truck, a cutaway of a radial nine cylinder engine from a Beaver aircraft, Joey has three parked outside, chain saws, telephones, whaling paraphernalia, a single cylinder air compressor airlifted from the forest and his own personal workshop tucked away in the back of the hanger. The workshop was of particular interest as it was purpose built by Joey to help overcome a medical condition left behind by Guillain-Barré syndrome. Joey almost succumbed to the illness, he was on a respirator for 85 days and couldn't talk for 110. All in all he spent a year in the hospital, and we found him tinkering in his hanger. The bench in his workshop was built by Joey to aid muscles left weak after his illness, it was a thing of beauty. Joey's story was a fascinating one and the one thing that hit me hardest, after his illness that is, was the reasoning behind his restoration projects. He created the museum as a way to prevent pieces of history going to the wreckers. History was important to him, Coal Harbour was important to him, and those that had worked there and what they'd worked at were also important, in Joey's mind, these were people and places in time worthy of remembrance. Oh, and if you happen to have a 'data plate'  for an Ingersoll Rand compressor like the one in the picture below Joey would love to talk to you. He's also after a 'Vivian' single cylinder manifold. Any information please e-mail me and I'll forward the particulars.

When our visit with Joey was over we headed to Anne and Frank's neighbors for the Tuesday night Coal Harbour Ceiledh Band Jam. It was a real treat to see them in action, John on his Newfoundland 'Ugly Stick' while Allan belted out a couple of his own songs about the north island.

Coal Harbour was an absolute gas and the next morning as we left for Campbell River Frank gave me a hunk of coal to remember my visit.

Great folks, great town, great spot at the Dolphin House B&B. Thank you.

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Episode 2: Alert Bay

Alert Bay......what a spot, what an energy, and what a collection of characters. It has been a fantastic couple of days, incredible even. It started off with our host, Judy, what a character! She met us off the ferry and guided us to our parking slots like she was giving directions to an airplane taxiing into the terminal. Then she showed us to our quarters, her 45' Catalina Morgan sailboat, Paloma. Judy is a retired nurse, beer can bbq chicken specialist and incredible story teller.  She graciously introduced us to her friends and paved the way for an unforgettable visit. 

Alert Bay......what a spot, what an energy, and what a collection of characters. It has been a fantastic couple of days, incredible even. It started off with our host, Judy, what a live wire! She met us off the ferry and guided us to our parking slots like she was giving directions to an airplane taxiing into the terminal. Then she showed us to our quarters, her 45' Catalina Morgan sailboat, Paloma. Judy is a retired nurse, beer can bbq chicken specialist and incredible story teller. After settling in she graciously introduced us to her friends and paved the way for an unforgettable visit. 

Judy's floating home. 

Judy's floating home. 

Sailboat Judy - mean chicken bbq!

Then came a tour of the town which led us to the U'mista Cultural Society. The shoreline location emanated a beautiful energy and Dominik painted an incredible painting on the grounds next to a couple of totem poles. The U'mista Cultural Centre was a revelation and offered an extremely focused look at Potlach ceremonies and included many masks on display, a large portion of which had been 'seized' by the government after 'Potlaches' were outlawed in the 19th century and which had subsequently been returned. Della, Sarah, and Trevor were incredibly receptive to our project and allowed us to film inside and Trevor gave us a great tour accompanied by a contagious sense of humour.

Dominik getting creative

Painting U'mista

From there we made a visit to Alert Bay 'Culture Shock,' a store run by four sisters that have made it their mission to share their Namgis First Nations culture by way of videos, story telling, traditional salmon bbqs and cedar weaving. Their 'Namgis Roots Experiences' are a fascinating way to get a hands on experience into their First Nations Culture. We had a great interview with one of the sisters, Andrea Cranmer, what a character, and were blown away by her clarity of the past, her passion for the present, and her vision for the future. It was so refreshing to witness such passion and conviction. Thank you Andrea, and thank you Donna for your lovely basket weaving demonstration. Not only very enjoyable but very educational too.

Trevor at U'mista Cultural Society

Andrea at Culture Shock - Alert Bay

Collin - What a character

Then there was was the aforementioned bbq beer can chicken cooked to perfection by Judy. I still smile when I think of her stories, there were so many, and I,m talking really entertaining ones. Like working on a tug boat as a cook for six weeks as she sailed from North Sydney, Nova Scotia, all the way down the East Coast, through the Panama Canal and up the West Coast to Vancouver. Six weeks, with only one shore leave in Panama. Hard core, but Alert Bay seems to attract strong people with strong stories. Such as Collin, another free spirit. He owns a good part of the waterfront, three Double Decker buses, a London Hackney cab, and loves his happy hour, as many others do, on his front porch as the world goes by. It was hard to keep track of all the characters, but if you wanted to get a handle on it the Bayshore Diner over breakfast was a great place to start. We were initially given some flak for taking the 'old timers' table in the corner but once we apologized profusely they warmed up to us and what a spectacle the diner was. It was Alert Bay's version of the Rovers Return on Coronation Street. Everyone that walked through the door was greeted by those already in place by handshakes and hugs as tongues got to wagging over a hearty greasy spoon. 

Beautiful waters

Welcome to Alert Bay

Yes....Double Deckers!

During the day we gathered establishing shots and had the very good fortune of being invited to a Potlatch that was being held in the 'Big House.' That was something to be experienced and with the permission of the organizer, James Speck, we were allowed to film inside. What a treat. I have heard of these traditional ceremonies but have never had the honour of attending one. As tradition dictated we waited patiently by the door to the Big House for the drumming to end. When it did the door opened and we were permitted entry. We soon found seats and witnessed part of the ceremony. To see the fire burn in the middle of the floor with a bean of sunlight making its way down from the roof, and to hear the wood carvers beating on a cedar log while dancers circled the flame was a very emotional experience. There was something primordial to the ceremony that made the world outside seam insignificant, and Judy happily made mention of the amount of children attending. Traditions were being passed on, as they should.

Then it was time to take our leave, to cross another water on yet another ferry. The maritime theme was gaining traction!

Thanks again to Della, Sarah, and Trevor at U'mista, to Andrea and Donna at Alert Bay Culture Shock, to Collin at Happy Hour, James at the Big House and a very special thank you to Judy, our host.

You made it happen!!!

Red, white and blue blue blue!!! 

Red, white and blue blue blue!!! 

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Changing Landscapes TV Scott Wilson Changing Landscapes TV Scott Wilson

Episode 1: Gold River and the Uchuck III

I guess when you live on an island there will always be a certain maritime ambiance prevalent. We started our adventure off with an authentic walk, or passage, down memory lane. Take a Second World War Yard Mine Sweeper, convert her to a coastal freighter, send her to the West Coast of Canada and what do you have...the Uchuck III, the last wooden hulled coastal freighter in Canada.

I guess when you live on an island there will always be a certain maritime ambiance prevalent. We started our adventure off with an authentic walk, or passage, down memory lane. Take a second world war Yard Mine Sweeper, convert her to a coastal freighter, send her to the West Coast of Canada and what do you have...the Uchuck III, the last wooden hulled coastal freighter in Canada.

Early morning

Dominik at work

Friendly Cove

There are so many angles to the Uchuck III story that a book should be written about her, then again we filmed her, and not on a tourist day trip either, but a three day adventure that saw her deliver supplies to fish farms, logging camps and the remote community of Kyuquot on the north west coast of Vancouver Island. We accompanied 34 passengers on the adventure as we rolled in rough water the first day, and basked in sunshine on calm waters while spotting humpback wales for the next two. The trip was a history, geography and marine biology class rolled into one. As the rugged West Coast scenery slid by, the wooden hull, twin in-line 8 cylinder 2 stroke diesels, and the 'telegraph' which relayed ships commands from the bridge to the engine room kept my gearhead juices flowing, and when I'd had enough of that the marine life came out to play. Humpback whales, rafts of sea otters and spawning salmon were the highlight.

Logging camp

Captain Cook! / the Zen Guy

Pristine water

For our three day 'Esperanza Adventure Cruise' we have to thank Alberto Girotto for making it happen. We hoped for a day trip, he gave us three, plus two nights in the crew quarters. When he asked me if that would 'work' during our phone conversation I was left speechless. I reckon so. Then there was Julie who fielded my calls from the office with such enthusiasm she made me laugh. On the Uchuck III we'd like to thank the skipper, Spencer, the engineer, Frank, the first mate, Simon, the oiler/deck hand, Dave, and Elaine in the galley. They were like a family and treated us like we were too....and Elaine's cooking was, well I was under threat of being chased from the galley.

Alberto talking shop

Julie in the office

Spencer on the 'telegraph'

Frank on the gas

Simon on the derrick

Elaine in the galley

Dave on deck

A raft of sea otters

An awesome trip!

We rode up to Gold River the night before we sailed and bedded down in Gold River, at the Gold River Chalet. The folks there put us up comfortably the night before our passage and for a couple of nights upon return so we could explore the incredible countryside and the Upana Caves. It's amazing how quickly Vancouver Island can get rugged

The Gold River Chalet

The Gold River Chalet

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Changing Landscapes TV Scott Wilson Changing Landscapes TV Scott Wilson

The 'Comps'

As you may or not know we are undertaking the filming of Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island under our own steam. Yes, Shaw television are going to air the series once it is completed but there is no financial compensation involved. Instead, to make this series a reality we have approached certain businesses to help offset the costs which are carried by myself and Dominik. The fact is the series wouldn't be possible without the support of those businesses. Whether they be hotels, B&Bs, organizations, or activity based businesses, they have all committed to help us realize our adventure.

When I first started approaching these businesses I had no idea what was going to happen, literally. What followed was an incredible influx of positive feedback and discussions. So many people, through e-mail and phone conversations, heard our plan, saw the merit in it and extended themselves and their businesses to us on a complimentary basis. That is where the 'Comps' in the title of this blog comes from. Instead of charging us the going rate for their service, they graciously 'comped us' so we might experience something unique or lodge at a particular location so we could carry on with the shoot. The fact is, if they hadn't stepped forward the series would have remained in the planning stages, so before I continue with the location blogs I thought it fitting that we extend a heartfelt 'thank you' to all that have joined the Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island adventure. As each location blog unrolls I will add those businesses that assisted us to the blog side bar so you can see who helped make this adventure possible. They will also receive a credit in the episode that they assisted with.

So, to all the businesses that 'comped us,' your assistance made this series a reality!

Thank you.

And now on to the main course. First up, Gold River and the Uchuck III, the last wooden hulled coastal freighter in Canada.

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Spunky's Motorcycle Shop Joins the Adventure!!

We are very pleased to announce that Spunky's Motorcycles have joined the Changing Landscapes adventure as a major sponsor! We met with Simon, the owner, on Saturday and have to say we're very pleased with the outcome. Simon is as passionate about motorcycles as we are and was very enthusiastic about the upcoming Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island TV series. He offered some great pointers to us, yes, we have much to learn, and was very supportive in seeing our vision become a reality.

We are very pleased to announce that Spunky's Motorcycles have joined the Changing Landscapes adventure as a major sponsor! We met with Simon, the owner, on Saturday and have to say we're very pleased with the outcome. Simon is as passionate about motorcycles as we are and was very enthusiastic about the upcoming Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island TV series. He offered some great pointers to us, yes, we have much to learn, and was very supportive in seeing our vision become a reality.

So, to fill in the blanks, Spunky's is well known to us because they're just up the road near Parksville, and because they have a great showroom filled with gleaming MV Augustas, KTMs, Kawasakis and Yamahas. In short it's a great place to go drool over the latest and greatest offerings and talk 'shop.' Personally I love bike shops, love comparing notes, swapping road stories, and just admiring cutting edge technology on public display.

And that's just the bikes, they also have an awesome clothing and accessories department. In fact both Dominik and I have kitted up here in the past. For the Bolivia trip we both made Spunky's our go-to choice for riding gear. They have a great selection of clothing suited to our Canadian climate (and other climes) and aggressive pricing, so for us it was an easy stop. And once there that choice was made easier by Dale, head of the clothing and accessories department. He walked us through the gear item by item and helped us make the right choice. Even as dedicated motorcyclists it is hard to keep abreast of continually evolving products, but Dale was quick to point out the pros...and the potential cons, of each product as it related to what we wanted to do. Let's face it, every product is not the same and some are better suited to a given situation then another, that's where knowledgeable staff enter into the equation. With gear from Dainese, Alpinestars, Klim, Arai, Shoei and HJC amongst others, you're sure to find what you need for the road or the dirt.

It seems somehow fitting that our 'local' bike shop should be the ones to step up and join the adventure. It sure makes us feel good and we look forward to a great collaboration with Simon. There's not a better feeling than when a local business shares your vision.

So, in conclusion, if you're after a new MV Agusta, KTM, Kawasaki, or Yamaha, ride out to Spunky's, or if you're looking for your first bike, drive out and they'll take good care of you. And don't forget the riding gear either....very important to have the right gear depending on what your intended style of riding is.

We'll keep you posted with updates.

In the meantime, thank you Simon!

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Partnership Drive

So we're off and running. We have just over a month before we start shooting Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island and we've sent out partnership proposals. Sponsorship is always a tricky thing, after all there's only such much allocated for advertising and as we're approaching the last quarter of the year many budgets have already been spoken for.

So we're off and running. We have just over a month before we start shooting Changing Landscapes Vancouver Island and we've sent out partnership proposals. Sponsorship is always a tricky thing, after all there's only such much allocated for advertising and as we're approaching the last quarter of the year many budgets have already been spoken for. There's also the question of 'fit' between the sponsor and product and the simple reluctance of many to endorse advertising, especially television, when there are so many other departments scratching for cash as well.

An interesting development has already occurred though. It's one thing filming and editing, quite another looking for sponsors and the first potential sponsor I approached broached a concern that hadn't really occurred to us. Yes, we say we are going to film this series, but, in all good faith what happens if for some reason we don't produce what we say we're going to produce. Where do the sponsor's dollars go then. Are they written off? Good question, and for many that's an intangible that can't be ignored. So a suggestion was made to me. This particular sponsor indicated he would sign on and proceed with the sponsorship once we had the 13 episodes edited and ready for airing. In other words he wanted to safeguard his investment, and looking at it, it was a sound business decision. So much to learn...

So the packages have gone out, now it's time to lock down locations and try to tie down 'contra' sponsors, i.e. those willing to exchange goods or a service in exchange for a credit, such as hotel rooms, a boat ride, or maybe there's a trip in a float plane for some aerial footage. This business is a fascinating one, there are so many variables that have to be taken into account before shooting can even begin. I find it quite exciting. The thought of having local businesses 'get on board' immediately increases the scope of any production and adds a new element to the 'production team.' I was a huge rugby player in school and love the 'team' concept, the sense of collaboration for a common goal, and that's what sponsors do, they help pave the way for a successful project

The proposals have gone out, let's see where they take us.

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Welcome to changinglandscapestv.com

So, after much deliberation and toing and froing we bit the bullet and opened up a new shop. Dominik and I have been busy this past week designing a new site. There've been many phone calls between Atlin and Gabriola posing questions on style and substance regarding this new site. After all, Dominik is a landscape artist and I wield a film camera, so thoughts and tastes didn't always coincide. Many questions were posed, most were dealt with, and some linger on....

"What do you think of this?" "That's cool!" "I like that." "What...are you kiddiing...that sucks!"

Yes, much time on the phone, but here we are....and we hope you approve of our efforts. Obviously there will be tweaking here and there and content will be added as developments unfold, but the bones have arrived!

So, after much deliberation and toing and froing we bit the bullet and opened up a new shop. Dominik and I have been busy this past week designing a new site. There've been many phone calls between Atlin and Gabriola posing questions on style and substance regarding this new site. After all, Dominik is a landscape artist and I wield a film camera, so thoughts and tastes didn't always coincide. Many questions were posed, most were dealt with, and some linger on....

"What do you think of this?" "That's cool!" "I like that." "What...are you kiddiing...that sucks!"

Yes, much time on the phone, but here we are....and we hope you approve of our efforts. Obviously there will be tweaking here and there and content will be added as developments unfold, but the bones have arrived!

The site will focus primarily on our new adventure travel television series 'Changing Landscapes.' We felt a dedicated site was necessary to move our filming projects forward. You'll be able to see where we've been, where we're heading, and the products offered as a result of our misguided forays. You will also be able to find out a bit more about Dominik and myself and what makes us tick...or ride bikes. There is also a page dedicated to Dominik's incredible paintings, and another cataloging my books. You'll be able to contact us, get the latest news, give us feed back, but most importantly you'll be able to follow along as we head out through changing landscapes.

Click on the link below to check it out.

www.changinglandscapestv.com

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vancouver Island

The following businesses contributed directly to the making of this series. To view them up close click on their picture.


Shaw Television
Spunky's Motorcycle Shop
The Uchuck III - Gold River
Alberni Pacific "Steam" Railway - Port Alberni
Longwood Brewery
Longwood Brewpub
Gold River Chalet - Gold River
Judy's 45' Catalina Morgan - Alert Bay
U'mista Cultural Society - Alert Bay
Culture Shock - Alert Bay
Quarterdeck Inn - Port Hardy
Dolphin House B&B - Coal Harbour
Painter's Lodge - Campbell River
Grizzly Bear Viewing - Campbell River
Maritime Heritage Centre - Campbell River
Shelter Point Distillery - Campbell River
Nomadic Bull B&B - Gabriola
Bluethner Fine Art - Gabriola
Twin Beaches Gallery - Gabriola
Swept Away Inn - Port Alberni
Lady Rose Marine Services - Port Alberni
Imperial Eagle Fishing Lodge - Bamfield
BMSC - Bamfield
Canadian Princess Lodge - Ucluelet
Ucluelet Aquarium
The Wickaninnish Inn - Tofino
Tofino Sea Kayaking
Salt Spring Island Cheese Company
Mistaken Identity Vineyard - Salt Spring
Swans Hotel - Victoria
Eagle Wing Tours - Victoria
Naval & Military Museum - Victoria